LV is the late disgorgement program at Philipponnat, with this bottle being disgorged in March 2023. 1998 was the last vintage before modernisation of the winemaking facilities under Charles Philipponnat. Tremendously characterful and layered, the 1998 shows a little wild side with a lightly briny, leathery complexity behind dried apricot, roasted pineapple and greengage fruit that shows some of the forward generosity of the year. There's plenty of brambly, true Pinot shining through still, with the late disgorgement preserving the fruit amid all the complexity of age. No need to cellar this further. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay vinified entirely in foudres.
93 points, Tom Hewson, Decanter (Sep 2023)