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B-21 Top Recommendation
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Producing a range of “well-made and well-priced cuvees” according to Vinous critic Neal Martin, these top scoring Red Burgundy selections from Domaine Jessiaume deliver outstanding value among the region’s ever rising prices, an age worthy array from an under the radar appellation at best on the market pricing for savvy collectors to stock the cellar.
Established at the entrance of the tiny village of Santenay in 1850, Domaine Jessiaume crafts its small production Burgundy wines ranging from village level to 1er Cru from 15 hectares of organically farmed vineyards under the ownership of French researcher Dr. Jean-Francois Le Bigot since 2020, employing a low intervention approach including fermenting the grapes with indigenous yeasts and limiting the use of new French oak to preserve the freshness of the fruit. Sourced from a two-hectare parcel in the La Cassiere lieu-dit, the refined 94 pt. 2022 Domaine Jessiaume Santenay La Cassiere is a terrific introduction to the portfolio, “an elegant style of Santenay” according to Burgundy expert Jasper Morris offering fresh aromatic red fruit with silky tannins on a long and refined finish and earning the #4 spot on Decanter’s Top 10 Red Burgundy Values of 2022. From Santenay’s top 1er Cru and named for its unique gravelly soils, Jasper Morris describes the flagship 94 pt. 2022 Domaine Jessiaume Santenay Les Gravieres 1er Cru as “busting with energy without sacrificing finesse,” its rich, spiced fruit layered with lush tannins and bright acidity on “an impeccable finish.” Hand selecting about a third of the best fruit from the estate’s nearly 90 year old vines, winemaker William Waterkeyn aged the seductive 96 pt. 2022 Domaine Jessiaume Santenay Les Gravieres Numerus Clausus 1er Cru in 40% new French oak, yielding “a very refined and super elegant” 1er Cru according to James Suckling with substantial structure to evolve over several decades. Produced in “a wonderful and classically styled, old school vintage” according to Alain Meadows of Burghound, the fresh and silky 93 pt. 2021 Domaine Jessiaume Beaune Les Cents Vignes 1er Cru comes from the estate’s 1.16 hectare parcel in Les Cent Vignes or the “Hundred Vines” 1er Cru planted with Pinot Noir vines averaging 60 years of age, revealing a “powerful” and “quite delicious” 1er Cru according to Vinous critic Neal Martin, naming it his pick of the vintage and summing it up as “superb.”
Described by Inside Burgundy’s Jasper Morris as “wines of significant refinement,” these Domaine Jessiaume selections deliver significant value as well, offering Burgundy lovers and collectors a rare opportunity to stock up by the case at a price that doesn’t break the bank. |
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The red premier cru Gravières is the flagship of this estate. It is widely seen as the finest vineyard in Santenay, and Jessiaume owns more than five hectares; the bulk of this is included here. This substantial wine is slightly reticent on the initial attack, but it opens with time to show deep mulberry and plum fruit aromas, hints of exotic black tea and spice. The texture is dense and firm, with silky but supportive tannins and impressive persistence on the palate. The grapes are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing for 12 months in cask (25% new).
94 points, Charles Curtis, Decanter (Nov 2023)
A fine flowing crimson purple colour. The bouquet has both class and a sense of reserve. Dark raspberry fruit, but the key is that this wine is busting with energy without sacrificing finesse. The tannins are correctly ripe and integrate beautifully, and there is just the right point of acidity alongside. An impeccable finish. Drink from 2028-2034.
91-93 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Jun 2023)
Our visit to the domaine in November confirmed without doubt that winemaker William Waterkyn is overseeing an impressive renaissance at this venerable Santenay address. The flagship 1er Cru Gravières Rouge (they also make a classic white from this cru) shows all the signatures of the terroir and vintage in its vibrant, racy red fruit core balanced by subtle, mineral structure. A reticent nose at first, but all the elements are there with some air, leading to charming, primary fruit definition on the palate, which is enhanced by impressive concentration from the sunny growing season. Still showing youthful nerve, the 2022 has all the makings of a cellar-worthy expression. In our search for top Burgundy character and world-class value, this is a must-try for any savvy Burgundy fan.
92 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer (Nov 2024)
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