For Armagnac lovers, there’s nothing better than a great Ténarèze bottling, and this 20-year-old is a classic of the genre. Deep copper, with intriguing aromas of antique varnish, cedar, brown butter, and hazelnut. Even at this young age, the fruit has taken a step back, and though dried prune and apricot are still present, the more elemental notes come to the fore. On the palate, there’s exotic spice, old-fashioned snuff tobacco, and dark coffee. On the midpalate there is nuttiness, dried pepper, and serious rancio. A long, dry finish full of clay minerality. Absolutely stunning. (Ténarèze, 42.5% abv.)
98 points, Jason Wilson, Vinous (Jul 2018)